Pinot Gris 2013

Here is a wine that speaks directly of (or is it to?) its Terroir –in fact the very soils from which it was raised. One can literally taste and feel the weight of the large river boulders that the deepest roots have wrapped themselves around after 22 years of searching out the remnants of soil moisture during long dry summers. The 2013 follows the path set by previous vintages yet carries an extra level of complexity, almost to the point of complication. This is at least in part due to the 9 months it spent on full yeast lees and for the first time a portion of the juice having been fermented and aged in well used oak.

The wine shows straw colour in the glass and straw is also one of the first impressions on the nose though a vigorous swirl releases white peach flesh, squeezed lime and the heavy scent of gypsophila. Hinting at the serious nature of what is to follow are secondary aromas of baked apple, bees wax candle, a little Asian spice and rich notes of rum and raisin. The palate looms large and impressive with jaw dropping structure and a bear-like grip of rasping phenolics. While not a fruit-driven wine, careful interrogation reveals fresh pineapple cleaved close to the skin, a prickly pear character and playful notes of freshly plucked oregano. This is a food loving style with extraordinary breadth across the mid palate and mouthfill to burn. What it lacks in elegance it makes up for in bravado, much like a born again Ted West. Texture is the buzzword with the superciliously soft acidity setting the stage for a jigsaw puzzle of powerful elements which combine and swamp the taste buds like the beaches of Somes Island in a southerly gale. The length and persistence could almost cause palate fatigue but nothing a creamy broccoli soup won’t rectify.

 

Technical Information:

Harvest date: 5 - 10 April 2013
Brix at Harvest: 24.3 to 24.6
Final Alcohol: 14.1%
pH: 2.90
Total Acidity: 7.10g/l
Residual Sugar: Zero
Bottling Date: 14 March 2014
Release Date: 21 May 2015
Cellaring: 2 to 8 years maybe more

 

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